Peripatetic Dining with Alice
I first heard about the brilliant people at Artichoke Trust through seeing the TV coverage of their 2009 Lumiere event in Durham (and apparently there’s another one later this year).
Artichoke describe themselves as “a creative company that works with artists to invade our public spaces and put on extraordinary and ambitious events that live in the memory forever”, and based on their latest event (“extravaganza” in fact is not too strong a word), Dining with Alice, which runs until 21st May 2011, they have succeeded in that goal once again. If you’re reading this before the end of the run, do try and get tickets if you can – but be sure to wrap up warmly if you attend.
Dining with Alice is presented as part of the Norfolk & Norwich Festival, around the gorgeous 15th century private house Elsing Hall in Norfolk (see view of the North Front, left). Artichoke have taken over the extensive and almost labyrinthine gardens and turned them into a wonderland of theatrical experiences and al fresco dining. As to the concept, Director Hilary Westlake suggests that the event is the answer to the question, “Just what happened to all the character’s in Alice’s adventures when they were no longer needed in her dreams?” It’s in fact a re-staging of an event originally created for the Salisbury Festival in 1999, when it was commissioned by now-Artichoke co-director Helen Marriage when she was the Festival’s director.
Peripatetic dining, inspired both by the seating arrangements at the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party (where you keep moving round the seats at the table) and by Lewis Carroll’s interest in mathematics, is at the heart of Dining with Alice, which is punctuated (and concluded) by a series of amusing theatrical presentations from a small cast of around 10 “Hosts” – in the form of the familiar White and Red Queens, the Queen (and King) of Hearts, the Duchess, the White Knight, the White Rabbit, the Mad Hatter, Tweedledum & Dee, butler Mr Alastair, and no less than half-a-dozen Alices – including “Alice After Wonderland”, “Alice in Wonderland”, a Tall Alice and some Tiny Alices. Plus a host of others, notably the “Turban Team”, about whom, more in a moment. Most, if not all the performers are from the East of England. The food is provided by Bompas and Parr with the aid of City College Norwich.
To begin with, you walk into and through the immaculate gardens via a circuitous route to find a marquee, with crisps and Victorian accompaniments, Hendrick’s Gin and a live string quartet, and have a wander around, talk to people – I was lucky enough to have a brief chat with Artichoke co-director Nicky Webb, whom I met originally in the Cambridge Picture House bar thanks to Bill Thompson – read the fascinating programme and find your name on the curiously-named “Seating Plan”. I say “curiously”, because there is, in fact, no indication where you’ll be sitting. Instead, there’s a colour and a number – and you notice that your colour/number combination is different from those of anyone you arrived with. Hmmm. After the guests have all arrived, the main characters march in to the accompaniment of a brass band and the first part of the event begins.
It turns out that the colour and number identify the waiter (“server” is not the right word, as they don’t serve the food) who will lead you, personally, to your places during the course of the evening: the former indicating the colour of their turban and the latter a number the member of the “Turban Team” holds and announces. You are separated from anyone else in your party as you go off, following your waiter on a circuitous route through the darkening gardens, while the sounds of Wonderland are heard around you in the forms of the calls of strange birds and creatures echoing across the lawns and emerging suddenly from nearby bushes. You have a chance to get to know the others who have the same colour and number as yourself – I was lucky enough to find myself in the company of three women with whom I had the opportunity to chat on our walk, before being separated as we were shown our tables for the first course. The main characters flit among the tables as you eat, engaging in conversations or not, until your waiter collects you for a further intricate walk to the next course. The tables are littered with strange things: little cards with riddles, labels, and other paraphernalia. You are indeed led into a kind of Wonderland, with a marvellous fantastic atmosphere unlike anything you’ve previously experienced.
The evening was a series totalling six courses of excellent food, each taken at a different table, and after the first course, with one or more different people previously unknown to me – a truly wonderful idea and I’m pleased to have enjoyed several excellent discussions over dinner. Soon you find yourself in the company of the rest of your party, among others, and ultimately you’re led to a dining area that’s laid out almost like a conventional restaurant – except that it’s under the sky, and in front of you is a stage and live musicians before the South Front of the beautifully illuminated Elsing Hall (see main photo) – for the dessert and finale (above). The dining area was actually built out over the moat.
There’s a certain amount of walking involved, of which you should be aware (apparently arrangements can be made if your mobility is limited, but I don’t know the details) and the night we were there, the temperature dropped to around 6º Celsius, so do wrap up well. But do be sure not to miss this marvellous event. Congratulations to Artichoke and the whole team involved for a quite remarkable and unmissable experience. Definitely the best event I’ve attended for some time.
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